How to Open a Watch Case While opening a watch isn’t rocket science, a watch can be damaged if you try to open it incorrectly. Never use a screwdriver to try to open a case. If you really aren’t sure what to do, take it to one of your local jewelers and ask them to show you how to open it. While it is open, make sure you record everything written on the movement of the watch and the watch case. These details can sometimes be important. A good description of how to open a pocket watch case and background information can be found here , thanks to the work of Kent Singer.
Rolex Submariner chronometer dating to
Poljot chronograph Casio AE12 LCA liquid-crystal-analog watch Traditionally, watches have displayed the time in analog form, with a numbered dial upon which are mounted at least a rotating hour hand and a longer, rotating minute hand. Many watches also incorporate a third hand that shows the current second of the current minute. Watches powered by quartz usually have a second hand that snaps every second to the next marker.
A truly gliding second hand is achieved with the tri-synchro regulator of Spring Drive watches. All of the hands are normally mechanical, physically rotating on the dial, although a few watches have been produced with “hands” that are simulated by a liquid-crystal display.
These watches are typical of the “Deco” style of the teens and 20’s. The Elgin and Hamilton were dated by serial number, while the Gruen was dated by an inscription on the back. The “New Haven” was dated by looking at the style of the watch.
Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf and Frederick Gruen were friends and neighbors in Switzerland their factories were just yards apart. The men planned a collaboration in Europe under the name Rolex-Gruen, but the Great Depression forced a halt to the project. This triple-signed, 14 karat solid white gold cartouche model is a real gem. Dating to the late s and in excellent condition, it features two genuine diamonds set into an ornately engraved bezel. The original winding crown is beautifully engraved in a flower design.
The case measures 25mm lug tip to lug tip and 15mm in width The sterling silver, enamel finished dial is in excellent condition, featuring black enamel painted numbers, 60 minute inner track border and original Spade-style hands. The acrylic crystal is in excellent condition.
Waltham Watch Company
Seen in the 18 carat gold case of an Eterna watch. Also seen in an unidentified nine carat gold watch case with Glasgow Assay Office import hallmarks for to date letter “d” , shown in the image here. The movement is an A. Schild calibre which carries the trademark “Sunbeam ” engraved on the barrel bridge.
Vintage Gruen Watches. Related Categories. Auction Alerts. Common as they are today, wristwatches are a relatively new entry into the world of timepieces. In fact, as recently as the early decades of the 20th century, men considered wristwatches too effeminate, instead favoring traditional pocket watches. While a variety of factors helped shift.
Since Sumerian time, human being has invented the devices to measure and keep track of time. Clock and watches further developed in modern days. Antique and vintage mechanical watches and clocks produced in Switzerland, Germany,Japan and USA were high precision device that were sought after by many collector for their complications, rarity and high in value Both 18 and 16 size versions were manufactured, each in both open face and hunter styles, and in and jewel versions.
The Gruens dealt directly with individual jewelry stores; there were no wholesalers or jobbers involved in the distribution of their watches. In George Gruen joined the firm as treasurer and financial officer. The company incorporated and its name changed to D. In Gruen introduces its “VeriThin” line of watches.
[ELGIN] Pocket Watch Serial Numbers: Date, Grade, Jewels
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Dating A Gruen Wristwatch from a Wadsworth Case Serial Number I’m grateful that I can share with you MORE tools for your Gruen toolbelt. Another wrench (spanner for you Brits) in the toolbox is always welcomed as Gruen collectors need all the help they can get.
Why such a list? Sometimes the question of which models are the most rare or particularly desirable is asked by a new collector figuring out where to start, or by someone looking to buy a nice gift for an admirer of vintage watches. I’ve been in both positions, so here’s my best shot at being of some help to others similarly situated.
Examples of almost all of these models can be found in my collection. I’ve listed these in roughly chronological order, rather than by order of desirability. In my view, they are all equally desirable and would hold their own in any vintage watch collection. Any of the Lone Eagles, of which there are at least six different models dating between and
Mens Wrist Watches
In the past 5 years the number of tools to help us learn about these awesome watches has jumped from a single page Caliber-Date table to at least 3 new, significant dating tools. It’s important to understand the difference between the dates that these tools provide. You want to match the date with the correct use of that date. Here are the 3 different dates that can be found on a Gruen watch.
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Among the first companies to sell wristwatches, the Gruens split their manufacturing between two continents, exporting American technology to Germany and Switzerland, and bringing German and Swiss traditions of craftsmanship to America. Dietrich was born in Osthofen, Germany, in , and started his watchmaking career at age In he went to America and settled near Columbus, Ohio. A hard-working young man, Dietrich was awarded his first watchmaking patent at age 27, in At 29 he co-founded the Columbus Watch Manufacturing Company; the successful enterprise was soon building complete watches in its own employee factory buildings.
To graduate, Fred was given bars of metal from which he had to build working watch movements, designing and manufacturing all the parts. Initially, Dietrich and Fred designed the watch movements in America and manufactured them in Germany. Later, they would build their own movement factory in Switzerland.
Vintage benrus watch Watches
The Fallacy of the “Maker’s Mark” Before sending an item to be assayed and hallmarked at a British assay office a person must first register their details with the assay office they want to use. The reason for this is pretty obvious – the assay office needs to know who to charge for their services, where to return the items, and who to hold responsible and punish if an item is found to be sub-standard, which in earlier times included sentence to the pillory.
This person is called the “sponsor”, which in this context means the person who takes responsibility for the items submitted.
Jul 05, · One comforting thing about Gruen watches is that while the prices today are inexpensive, the original purchase price of vintage Gruen timepieces was not inexpensive. Gruen made high quality watches and movements that operate smoothly today because of the attention to quality that Gruen dedicated itself to.
Although not a watchmaker, the sporting goods retailer produced and sold high-quality gear for outdoor pursuits, such as hunting and fishing. Imier Switzerland in by Georges Agassiz, who had worked for Longines, but left during its first decade one filled with financial troubles. Within a few years, the company was winning awards and making complete high quality watches. Its trademark was a fish in an oval.
Alpina [AL-PEE-NA] Founded in by a group of watch and clock makers to collectively align their interests in the purchase and distribution of parts. They soon began to produce high quality movements for export abroad. Within a few decades, Alpina watches were being sold at thousands of retailers worldwide. By the end of the century, they were represented by Wittnauer in New York. They became known for high-grade repeaters, clocks, and chronographs. The name has since passed through several hands and has been recently revived by a new company.
They began by making watches and selling them to other international companies, but were not legally established until The original founders passed away following the conclusion of World War I, and the company was left to their sons, who continued their tradition of fine watchmaking.
Another British Military watch on the blog this time, and something of an enigma. The watch is very similar in style and size to the W10 made by Hamilton from and subsequently by CWC from and it shares all of the attributes required to adhere to the strict standards for military use. The case is opened by removing the crystal and splitting the two-piece stem, and inside is a 17 jewel, manually wound calibre made by A.
It has a higher beat rate, 28, bph as opposed to 21, bph, and also has a micro-adjustment mechanism mounted on the balance cock for more accurate regulation. Here is a picture of a cal. In the picture above, the stem is pushed all the way in — in the winding position — and so the stem presses on hacking lever, it pivots around the fixed axis just above the castle wheel and the lower arm of the lever releases the balance allowing it to rotate freely.
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However, after a request from the the archivist of the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, who looks after the historical records of the Edinburgh and Glasgow Assay Offices, the editor of the NAWCC Bulletin has allowed the article to be made publicly available and it can now be downloaded by clicking on this this link: My research has also been incorporated in the latest version of Bradbury’s Book of Hallmarks, you can read about this at Bradbury’s Book of Hallmarks. I will be publishing some corrections and additions to my NAWCC article that I will make available as a download here.
The following sections illustrate some characteristic marks to help you identify the type of marks you might find in a watch case and then link to a page that goes into more details about those marks. Sterling silver import marks British Import Hallmarks After 1 June all gold and silver watches imported into Britain were required to be assayed and hallmarked in a British assay office. They were stamped with new hallmarks that were intended to show that the item was imported and not of British manufacture.
The picture here shows a set of London import hallmarks for silver. For clarity this picture shows only the three assay office marks, the town mark, standard mark and date letter. It does not include the sponsor’s mark, but a British hallmark must have all four marks, it is not complete and legal without a sponsor’s mark. Because the date letter punches were changed when new wardens were elected each year, which took place part way through the year, hallmark date letters span two calendar years.
This is not noted in most tables of hallmarks, which only show the year when the punch was first used.
York Time Antique and Vintage Used Watches
My research pal Barry and I have spent many months devising a way to date Gruen watch models using the information stamped in the back of the watch’s case. You can find the full article that includes a detailed description of how to correctly use this new technique using this link: I’m providing a link because the full text includes a table that is important and somewhat lengthy. If I get requests to post the article in it’s entirety in response to this post, then I’ll try to pull together some way of doing it.
The high level summary is that the “Style Number”, one of the two numbers usually stamped in the back of Gruen Wristwatch cases, can be used to determine the date that the watch model began production. This is the date that you’ll find the watch first advertised and is typically near the date that the specific watch being identified was made.
Gruen Style Numbers that are found in cases of vintage Gruen watches can be used to date Gruen watches accurately. This Style Number Dating Technique is described in detail. The page is a peer reviewed and published paper in the NAWCC and the AWCI horological journals.
If this item contains incorrect or inappropriate information please contact us here to flag it for review. As with all our watches this comes complete with band so is ready to wear or add to your collection straight away. This watch is best noted for its highly unusual cushion shape, its curvex design and its rose dial. The original Gruen signed case is a true beauty. It is of a very rare design with beautifully arched sides and ends which create a large cushion shape.
The e nds also have curved talon style lugs. T ake a good look, it is stunning. The bezel is a rich and deep 10k rose gold fill and the back is Gruen Guildite base Gruens’ version of stainless. The back also has a very slight curve.
Who did it better: Waltham, Elgin, Illinois or Hamilton
The Manufacture – History History of Zenith watches Browse the history of the Zenith Manufacture online, from its foundation by Georges Favre-Jacot and the creation of the first pocket chronograph. This legendary wristwatch chronometer movement equipped with a small seconds function was to earn no less than prizes. It is the only one capable of measuring short times to the nearest tenth of a second, thanks to its balance oscillating at a frequency of 36, vibrations per hour.
Production of the El Primero caliber could begin once more. Major watch brands were eager to get a fresh start in this field by equipping their timepieces with this legendary movement.
Early Gruen watches included pocket watches and wristwatches for men and women. Gruen watches were known for their elegant and thin design, marketed by the company as VeriThin. The American-based family-owned Gruen Watch Company closed in , but Gruen watches were made in Switzerland until
Rolex Submariner chronometer dating to Rare hacking seconds vintage Rolex Submariner dating to Uses the Rolex Chronometer rated automatic movement. Reviews 0 The Rolex Submariner is a rarer model than the garden variety no date Sub you are likely to encounter. The reference means it is fitted with a Chronometer rated Rolex Perpetual automatic movement.
This watch dates to based on the serial number This model has a correct caseback. The original matte black dial has the original and evenly aged luminous on the hour markers and hands. The Rolex calibre movement is in pristine condition and has been reviewed and serviced. This movement is one of the early hacking seconds movements. The watch is in excellent condition with only minor swirl marks in the case and a ding on the non crown side of the case.